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Stephen Frink Photography – Zambia and Botswana Safari

Photographer Stephen Frink’s blog from his latest EXPLORE African Safari to Botswana and Zambia (http://stephenfrink.blogspot.com/2010/08/african-safari-zambia-and-botswana.html):

Click here to see the photographs of Stephen Frink’s daughter, Alexa (http://stephenfrink.blogspot.com/2010/07/alexa-shoots-africa.html):

I’ve recently come home from an extraordinarily productive photo tour, on safari in Southern Africa, Zambia and Botswana specifically. Organized by our friends at Explore Africa, http://www.exploreafrica.net, this tour began at Lion Camp in Zambia, and then went on to Selinda and Jao camps in Botswana.

Here is a brief photo diary of the trip and its many, many highlights:

Our first camp was Lion Camp in Zambia. We specifically chose that because the game viewing is so very good there. Elizabeth at Explore suggested it, knowing that we would likely get enough stellar images the first few days that part of our photo imperative might be satisfied. She was so right! The first night we witnessed a leopard killing an impala. Good for us and our photo-ops. Not so great for the impala. Of course, that was on top of all the other general game (in the bush and along the rivers) we shot during the day.

The second night we witnessed another leopard kill, and the third night a lion kill. This kind of trifecta of predation I’ve never seen anywhere else on safari, and this was the 8th safari we’ve conducted in both southern Africa and East Africa.

Leaving Lion Camp and Zambia we flew into Botswana, cleared customs and then were flown via private aircraft to Selinda Camp, a private game reserve and lodge owned and operated by renown wildlife photography and cinema team, Beverly and Dereck Joubert. We’d met on safari three years previously, when I was leading a tour to Mombo Camp in Botswana and the Jouberts had just to shoot some stock footage. Coincidentally, the same day we’d earlier seen a beautiful scenario of a young leopard cub and mother in a nearby den. Dereck began filming this cub as it grew, for over three years actually, an experience which eventually evolved into a film, Eye of the Leopard, for National Geographic.

I’ve always been impressed with the Joubert’s visions of Africa, so intimate and respectful of the wildlife, and I figured if they felt the game opportunities were motivation to run a camp here, I would confidently follow their lead. Selinda did not disappoint!

A brief tip of the hat to Explore again for the air arrangements. We had private aircraft for our group of 19 at each camp, and they operated on time with the utmost courtesy and professionalism. When you are far away and in remote locations, that is great comfort.

Selinda offered the opportunity for game viewing from vehicles or boats, and because there is so much water in the Delta where they operate, Derek has chosen vehicles equipped with snorkels so they operate in water deeper than the floorboards. From hippos in the river to lions prowling the high grasses, this was an very productive camp, that operates at the highest level of service.

The highlight of our Selinda experience was watching a pride of lions with their young leaving for a night’s hunt. We photographed them in the gorgeous late afternoon light and into the dark as the searched for game, and eventually rendezvoused with the dominant male lion.

Like Selinda, Jao Camp is one of the premier safari properties operated by Wilderness Safaris. I’ve come to expect nothing but the best from a Wilderness Safaris property, and since Jao offered both excellent game viewing and an upscale spa ambiance, this is where we chose as our final camp.

This was a year of exceptional rain in the Okavango Delta, not while we were there, as is was beautifully sunny the whole time. But earlier in the year they had their most rain in several decades, and it meant that some of the roads near camp that might normally offer game viewing were underwater. However, the best game opportunities are but a 45-minute boat ride away anyway, at Hunda Island. Here we saw vast plains of grasses with elephants, giraffe, zebra, and of course the cats, both leopard and lion.

Being a Delta camp, Jao delivers the water activities quite well, including stable boats large enough for 8-10 photographers, and less stable but more intimate merkoros (like narrow dug-out canoes, but made of fiberglass these days) to offer a water-level view of the the vegetation of the Okavango.

Thanks to Explore and Lion Camp, Selinda, and Jao. This was the greatest safari experience yet, and we look forward now to the next one, hopefully soon!

To see the amazing images our 17-year old daughter Alexa took on this same safari, please visit my earlier blog post from July, here at http://stephenfrink.blogspot.com/2010/07/alexa-shoots-africa.html. It is easier to simply scroll up to the “July” tab on this page, and click on “Alexa Shoots Africa”. Yeah, I know, she kicked my butt. I’d say “beginner’s luck” but she had a terrific shoot on our last safari too. She has a great eye for composition, very instinctive.

-Stephen Frink, Photographer, www.stephenfrink.com

Extraordinary 3-tusk Elephant Sighting at Nxai Pan!

From our friends at Kwando Safaris:

While staying at Kwando’s Nxai Pan camp, Stuart Arnold, a Botswana-basednxai pan 3 tusk elephant sighting professional photographer was amazed to spot an unusual elephant drinking at the waterhole at the front of the camp.  Upon closer inspection it was discovered that the elephant carried an amazing 3 tusks!!

The tusks of an African Elephant grow continuously throughout their life –  a bull elephant’s tusks can grow up to 18 cm in a year. Tusks are an elephant’s tool and they are used for a variety of tasks including digging for water and roots or to strip bark from trees.

All elephant’s, like humans are either right- or left-handed, favoring a right or left tusk. The most often used tusk, is generally shorter due to wear and tear.  While the majority of elephants have two tusks, occasionally individual elephants exhibit abnormal growth which can include additional tusks.  Such examples are extremely rare.  As one can see from the images, the elephant is a mature bull and therefore has managed to live a long life despite his unusual third tusk.

nxai pan 3 tusk elephant sighting

The Heart of Southern Africa with Singer Rankin (WorldWomenWork)

Singer Rankin, World Women WorkBotswana and Zambia – September 2011

Our intimate journey through Southern Africa will be led by Singer Rankin, founder of WorldWomenWork (WWW).  “I had been traveling extensively in Africa and Asia for 25 years and was becoming increasingly concerned about the loss of habitat for wildlife and the seemingly endless cycle of poverty.  One day as I was trekking on Kanchenjunga in Nepal, the world’s third largest mountain, and the idea just came to me:  buy beautiful things made by indigenous women and sell them to my friends and women who love hand-crafted, quality goods.  Then donate the profits to conservation and towards education projects for women.  A simple way to change lives and help the environment!”…and thus WorldWomenWork was born.

For ten years, Singer has combined Africa and Asia, meeting women artisans who make beautiful, unusual things and help them organize to market their goods to the outside world.  WorldWomenWork provides a steady stream of income which grows local women’s enterprises, sells their products, and ultimately donates all proceeds from the sales to projects that educate girls, build economic independence for women and their families, and protect the natural world.  On this extraordinary trip you visit some of Singer’s favorite places in Africa, experience the best of African wilderness and wildlife, and meet the remarkable women who are gaining economic independence through their work with WWW.

Click here for more information on this special journey!

Singer Rankin, World Women Work

Singer Rankin, World Women Work

Chindeni Bushcamp reopens with a new look

Chindeni BushcampJust in time for this year’s safari season in the beautiful South Luangwa National Park in Zambia, Chindeni Bushcamp has reopened with a stunning new look!

The common areas of Chindeni Camp have been redesigned and rebuilt and the tents have fabulous new furniture.   The commanding views of the Chayumba Lagoon and nearby Chindeni Hills are as spectacular as ever and the resident hippos are ready to serenade you as you enjoy your tranquil evenings.Chindeni Bushcamp

Spend your time on exciting game walks, game drives and night drives.  Just recently the surrounding area of Chindeni has set a new sightings “record”… seven different leopards seen on one night drive!

If relaxation is what you’re looking for… park yourself in a deckchair at camp to watch the abundance of game that is drawn to the lagoon at different times of the day and become mesmerized by the elephants playing and bathing, the sunbathing crocodiles and thirsty cats.

Click here to see video from the Bushcamp Company on the new look of Chindeni

Chindeni Bushcamp

South Africa ties Mexico in the 2010 FIFA World Cup Opening Match

bafana bafana 2010 FIFA World Cup

Go Bafana Bafana!  South Africa, hosts of the 2010 FIFA World Cup, score first in the opening match against Mexico.  Despite their low international ranking and low expectations from the experts, South Africa came alive in the second half and very close to pulling off the win…

Breaking News article from 24News in Johannesburg:

THRILLER ENDS IN A DRAW

Johannesburg – A thrilling opening encounter between hosts South Africa and opponents Mexico has ended in a draw, with each side scoring single goals in the second half.

South Africa’s Siphiwe Tshabalala scored for the hosts in the 55th minute to open the tally, after a good passing move in midfield by South Africa led to Tshabalala breaking free down the left wing and he blazed forward and was left one-on-one with the Mexico goalkeeper. The stadium erupted into cheers when his high shot landed in the net.

Mexico’s Rafael Marquez responded to score in the 79th minute to level the goal tallies at one apiece.

Katlego Mphela had the best chance to put the hosts in the lead again in the 90th minute, as a surging run ended in a shot deflecting off the left hand post.

Both teams gain a point from the encounter, with the hosts taking the most positives from the game.

“Germany” Wins Chiawa Mini World Cup!!

LOCAL CHAMPIONS GO TO SOUTH AFRICA!

Chiawa World Cup - Lower Zambezi“Germany” beat “Cameroon” in a fiercely contested final at the Chiawa Mini-World Cup Tournament held at the end of May. No quarter was given, nor asked! Why the intense competition? The PRIZE was a big one!…An all expenses paid trip for 5 young village men to attend the FIFA 2010 World Cup in South Africa!

For two days 160 local players battled in sweltering heat on the dusty pitches of Chiawa Village in the Lower Zambezi. Many contestants played barefoot yet this did Chiawa World Cup - Lower Zambezinot diminish their striking skills, agility or speed. 16 teams made up from villages throughout the Chiawa Chiefdom participated in 32 games for the honor of being crowned champion of the “SPIRIT OF THE CUP 2010” tournament. The games were attended by over 400 Chiawa residents. Explore Africa Zambia and private donors from the USA partnered with Zambia’s premier airline, Zambezi Airlines, South Africa’s Courtyard Hotels and local sponsors to bring the Spirit of the Cup to Chiawa. The sponsors made it possible for 4 village footballers plus a local chaperone to attend Africa’s first World Cup.

Chiawa World Cup - Lower ZambeziRichard Wilson, Scottish Co-Director of EXPLORE Africa Zambia and lifelong devoted football fan, will accompany these 5 lucky villagers to the Cup. Richard and his wife Cherri Briggs own a private home in Chiawa’s GMA where they operate their African travel marketing business when not in the US. Through their American company, “EXPLORE Inc”, they have been bringing American tourists to Zambia for 15 years. Over the last few years they have become increasingly dedicated to helping the people of Chiawa and other remote parts of Zambia improve their lives. They have participated in many community projects, working closely with Her Royal Highness Chieftainess Chiyaba and other Zambian leaders. When asked where the vision for the “Spirit of the Cup” tournament came from, Wilson said, “I was born in Scotland and football is in my blood. I have been kicking a ball around for almost 50 years, since I first learned to walk. The best memories of my youth were playing on the local pitches of Africa where I grew up. I know what football means to the local guys and wanted to give them a chance to be part of Africa’s first World Cup. Football is the world’s biggest sport and brings people from all walks of life together on a ‘level playing field’ to enjoy the greatest past time ever: playing or watching soccer. On the pitch everyone is equal and anyone can win.”

Chiawa World Cup - Lower ZambeziThe tournament was based on the same format as the FIFA World Cup except the number of teams was reduced to 16. It was played as a 6-a-side tournament. Four groups were formed with four teams per group. Each team had 9 players and 1 manager. The playing pitch was halved and games were 20 minutes long. If at the end of the game the scores were level a penalty shoot out was incurred with 3 players from each team taking penalties. If scores were still level after the shoot out a sudden death penalty shoot out ensued. At the start of the tournament every team drew a name from a hat containing the names of 16 of the countries participating in the FIFA 2010 World Cup. Thereafter the teams played in the tournament representing one of the great international teams. By a stroke of fate, EXPLORE Africa Zambia’s team drew USA! Kits were provided by the sponsors indicating the country they were representing. Each team was also given official FIFA 2010 balls sent from SA. The goalposts were provided by nearby Kanyemba Lodge and all equipment was flown down to the event free of charge by Proflight air charters. Cee Cee Freight cleared the goods at no cost for their efforts.

According to Wilson, on the first day of the games expectations were high. The teams battled it out to qualify for the top two places of their respective groups. Once the they realized what it would take to progress further the level of competition became more and more intense. Skills were top notch! Wilson, a former coach, said the local players exhibited world class ability on basic, grassless pitches strewn with thorns. Despite sore feet and high temperatures, the players showed incredible endurance, playing throughout the day with few breaks and little refreshment. Sadly, as is the case of all tournaments, not all can qualify. By midday on Sunday the quarter finalists were known. Cameroon was up against Ghana, Germany against Italy, Spain against Argentina and surprisingly, USA against Brazil. The first two quarterfinals to be played were Cameroon against Ghana and Germany against Italy. Both games were fiercely contested with Cameroon and Germany narrowly beating  their opposition by one goal to nil. The next two quarterfinals were just as competitive with Spain up against Argentina and the USA playing Brazil. Spain totally outclassed their opposition with 7 goals to 1 but the upstarts of the tournament, the USA, beat the mighty Brazil 3-2 in an exhilarating penalty shootout and moved onto the Semi’s. The Germany vs Spain semi-final was a classic. Both of these teams were undoubtedly the stars of the  tournament so it was no surprise that this game ended in a nil – nil draw, and the dreaded penalty shootout loomed. However, German nerve remained strong and they narrowly beat Spain 3 goals to 2 in a wildly exhilarating shootout. The other semi-final was also evenly contested but eventually the USA succumbed to a 1- nil defeat against the mighty Cameroonians. The final was still to come but not before the big prizes were drawn as both teams needed a well earned rest before the final game.

Chiawa World Cup - Lower ZambeziThe draw format for the coveted prizes was decided upon by all team captains as follows:  everyone who played and all managers could potentially win the prize. Once the two finalist teams were proven, one name from each of the two teams competing in the final would be drawn, and the two winners would go to the FIFA World Cup in South Africa.  A third ticket was to be randomly drawn from the other 14 teams participating in the tournament who did not reach the final.

The tension was unimaginable as the draw took place, with hundreds of Chiawa World Cup - Lower Zambezionlookers pressing in and players visibly praying that they might be the one to draw a winning ticket. Cameroon drew the first ticket….and the winner was chosen! Then Germany drew and a winner was declared from that side. The random team’s player was to be decided by an initial draw of the remaining countries who had not reached the finals. “France” was drawn as the country team eligible for the wild card draw. Another young man from this team drew the lucky ticket. All three young winners were visibly stunned to find they had actually won! (Identities to be revealed at the celebration event in Lusaka June 16th!)  After the three tickets were drawn the crowd went wild. Three young men had just won the trip of a lifetime!

Chiawa World Cup - Lower ZambeziThe day ended with the final, Germany v Cameroon, an absorbing match played at a fierce tempo but the Germans were just too strong and defeated Cameroon by 2 – nil. All members of the German team received genuine FIFA kit bags as prizes and the players for Cameroon received genuine World Cup T-shirts. The jubilation and celebration by the German and Cameroon supporters was frenzied and a sight to behold. A fantastic tournament had just ended in a small remote village in Africa. Once again football was the winner, and all those that participated made their way back to their respective villages, singing and blowing their Vuvuzelus all the way. Chiawa had never been in higher spirits.

The winners will be flown to South Africa by Zambezi Airlines with EXPLORE Africa sponsor Richard Wilson and the group will be hosted by the lovely Courtyard Hotel at Bruma Lake in Johannesburg. Upon arrival they will be whisked away to the FIFA Soccer Village. Here they  will begin to feel what it is like to be part of the greatest event on the planet.  The next day they are off to watch Slovenia  v USA at Ellis Park in Johannesburg and the following day they see Cameroon play Denmark at Loftus in Pretoria. They then return to Zambia to relish memories and tell their stories.

Chiawa World Cup - Lower ZambeziWhen asked, EXPLORE Africa’s Richard Wilson said, “Aside from the great skill and enthusiasm of the players, the great moment in this draw was the camaraderie, complete lack of selfishness and true sportsmanship portrayed by fellow team members when one of their fellow players drew the winning ticket to go the Cup.  Even though their teammates knew it meant that they would not be going themselves, they were ecstatic for their fellow player’s good fortune.  The winners were carried on the shoulders of their team mates who sang and cheered for them. At EXPLORE Africa’s request, Don Mc Donald, Managing Director of Zambezi Airlines (another Scottish football fanatic…) enthusiastically dedicated yet another ticket to South Africa which will go to the “Player of the Tournament.”  Upon hearing the results of the tournament Mc Donald said, “When I saw the photos I realized how important this was to the guys and thought, why not take just one more?  Zambezi Airlines fully supports local community and we see football as one way to instill the spirit of competition and success in young sportsmen. We are delighted to be a part of this tournament.”  Wilson and his co-organizers will announce the winner of this ticket on Sunday at the first match of the annual football league in Chiawa. Wilson said, “We all know who this should go to. It was clear from the outset. Not only was this young lad an inspiration to his players and all others throughout the tournament, but he showed true leadership in every sense of the word. At the moment he is still unaware that this award is coming his way….on Sunday he is in for a big surprise and I am very glad he can join us at the Cup.” Stay tuned to this newspaper to see the photos of the winners…

An added bonus from this event has been the generous donation by EXPLORE Africa, Zambia and Multichoice / DSTV to supply 3 decoders and satellite dishes and 1 television to 3 schools in the area. This fantastic gift will allow residents of Chiawa to enjoy all the World Cup games live while also allowing these schools access to educational programs after the event for the children.

EXPLORE Africa Zambia asked that we send their sincere thanks to Her Royal Highness Chieftainess Chiyaba for supporting this event, to the sponsors, and to the Chiawa residents who embraced “The Spirit of the Cup” with so much enthusiasm and played in the spirit it was intended. Special thanks goes to Francis Habasune, headmaster of Chiawa Basic School, Bishop Siabwanta, Deputy Headmaster Chitende High, Charles Chiyama of the Chiawa Clinic and Isaiah Museto for his organization of the teams.

Chiawa World Cup - Lower Zambezi

Cohen “Outstanding” South Africa & Botswana Experience

“Our trip to South Africa and Botswana was outstanding!  There was beautiful wildlife, amazing landscapes, interesting and helpful people, meticulous planning and new experiences – what could be better?

While all of our guides varied in background, personality and guiding experience, all were excellent.  We learned a lot and had much pleasure doing so.  Private guides/vehicles gave us the flexibility and pace we enjoy.  We wanted to have lots of time viewing leopards and our experiences were surpassed.

After multiple trips we continue to appreciate EXPLORE’s knowledge, experience, enthusiasm and responsiveness.”

-Madeleine Cohen, Spring 2009

Packing Tips for your Safari

While you may have the urge to pack everything you think you could ever need on a trip to Africa, one of the most important tips that we can give you is to pack light.  It is a hassle to haul those heavy bags around and most charter planes only allow you to bring one soft sided bag that weighs 25 pounds or less (with all of your belongings in them), in addition to a backpack-style bag that weighs 15 pounds or less (which typically sits on your lap during the charter flight).  Most of the camps you visit offer laundry service so you don’t need to pack a new outfit for each day. Even though the leopards and zebra know how to show off trendy patterns, the animals could care less about your fashion sense!

WHAT TO PACK?

Leave the jeans at home! Not only are they hot and bulky, but their blue color tends to attract those pesky tsetse flies.  Select versatile clothing, such as lightweight nylon pants, that will keep bugs away and dry quickly. Consider long pants that you can convert to shorts by zipping off the legs, or long-sleeve shirts that can be rolled up to create short sleeves.  Dress for outdoor comfort, but remember it’s not always hot in Africa, especially during their winter months.  It can be chilly at night and in the mornings so we suggest bringing a down sweater jacket (such as the one made by Patagonia) that is light and packs small.

While game viewing, tan, khaki, drab, olive green or other neutral colors are most appropriate and less conspicuous to the animals, but you don’t have to look like you just walked off the set of Out of Africa. Pith helmets are definitely optional!

Get a good pair of binoculars and a good camera and/or video equipment which you have tested beforehand and are comfortable using. The African bush is no place to learn what all those buttons really mean.  Make sure you have plenty of pre-charged batteries and an adapter for recharging from safari vehicles.

The sun in Africa can be fierce, so sun protection is incredibly important.  A good pair of sunglasses, a hat and lots of sunscreen will be invaluable.  Bug spray, with as much deet as you can stand, will also become your best friend.

Although EXPLORE will send you a detailed packing list and travel guide before your trip, we understand that packing can be overwhelming at times.  If you just can’t handle it, call us up and for the price of air fare, room and board any of our employees will be glad to fly out and serve as your personal shopper!

The Victoria Falls Hotel is back!

Victoria Falls HotelThe brochures often refer to the Victoria Falls Hotel as “the grand dame of the Falls”… Well in this case the hype is true. A grander queen doesn’t exist in Africa! And she has a new spring in her step after recent renovations which brought the hotel back to its original colonial era glory… with a few nods to contemporary comfort.  The hotel has not lost charm of its classic ambiance, unlike almost all other refurbished hotels. And its just minutes away from the world famous Victoria Falls.  You see the spray from the falls on the balcony at lunch, and hear its quiet thunder all night.

Set in lush tropical gardens within Victoria Falls National Park, it provides a tranquility and seclusion that is hard found anywhere. The hotel has all of the luxuries you could want including air-conditioned rooms, satellite television, room service, floodlit tennis courts, an Edwardian-style swimming pool, lounges, reading rooms, restaurants and more. But all in grand, nostalgic style.  I never tire of wandering the halls after dinner in the dining room where the same old gents have played the piano and horn for the last 20 years.  The artwork and colonial ads and cartoons are fascinating.  A museum within a hotel.  The food is good as well… maybe for the first time ever!  With a great young chef from Scotland who has a fondness for fresh Scottish Salmon!  I am sure Livingstone would have walked a few extra hundred miles for a taste of fresh salmon in dill.

The Victoria Falls Hotel is definitely back!   My favorite hotel in all of Africa.

-Cherri Briggs, President, EXPLORE inc.

Victoria Falls Hotel

Mfuwe Lodge Reopens after Refurbishment

We are excited to inform you that Mfuwe Lodge, situated in the South Luangwa National Park in Zambia, reopened to guests on the 1st of May, with a brand new look, after a major upgrade and refurbishment.  Whilst the essential structure and design of the lodge remains the same considerable changes have been made to decor, furnishings, lighting and all facilities to give the lodge a whole new look.

Click here to view a video of the elephants in the Mfuwe reception!

Mfuwe Lodge is built between two spectacular lagoons.  The open plan design keeps the comfort and relaxation of guests in mind, but also capitalizes on the fact that an African wilderness experience is a blend of colors and textures, sounds, aromas and sights unmatched anywhere else in the world.

A new curio shop has been created and reception, bar and dining areas have been remodeled.  A new pizza oven/braii area has been installed.  The main deck area has been refurbished and an outdoor lounge and dining area has been incorporated.  The infinity swimming pool was re-lined and given a new look, and as an added benefit, solar “farms” have been erected to provide hot water in a more environmentally friendly way.

Each chalet provides 24 hour power and is equipped with a ceiling fan, refrigerator, tea and coffee making facilities, mosquito nets, brand new bathrooms, new furnishings and windows.  Aa private newly remodeled verandah in each chalet overlooks one of the lagoons where you can view some of Africa’s majestic wildlife as animals come down to drink.

The South Luangwa National Park, located in the eastern part of the Zambia, covers an area of 3500 square miles.  It is renowned for its beauty and its varied habitats which support one of Africa’s richest concentrations of game and birdlife.  Luangwa boasts Africa’s largest population of leopard. Over 50 species of large mammal and some 400 species of bird thrive in this last haven of wild Africa.  During a stay in the South Luangwa Valley you are bound to see the large elephant herds of up to 50 individuals, an abundant number of buffalo, fourteen antelope species and Thornicroft’s giraffe, unique to the Valley.  This area is also known for its healthy population of all the big predators.  The meandering Luangwa River with its many ox-bow lagoons and shady ebony groves forms the eastern boundary of the Park while the western horizon is dominated by the spectacular Muchinga escarpment, rising almost a kilometer from the valley floor.

Learn more about Mfuwe Lodge and the surrounding area at http://www.mfuwelodge.com/.

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